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Friday, May 26, 2017

Stuck Retaining Rings and 3D Vari-Beam Restoration

This is part of a series of posts I've written about common Maglite repairs. I've also covered the following topics:

Removing Battery Corrosion and Straightening Bent Lights
Stuck End Caps
Stuck Batteries
Switch Removal and Stuck Switches
Switch Disassembly and Repair

Disclaimer: I'll start out by saying that these repairs are tedious and challenging. It is very rewarding to make an old Maglite light again though. If you have a special light and don't feel up to the challenge I do restorations and custom work on most vintage flashlights. My contact info is at the right side of the page.

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There are not too many challenges that can't be overcome in restoring a Maglite (or Vari-Beam in this case). I've detailed Vari-Beam history and differences in this post. One of the most difficult ones though is a stuck retaining ring. Before the late 80s Mag Instrument used an aluminum retaining ring that screwed into the inner diameter of the barrel to secure the switch in place. This retaining ring has two holes in it and is meant to be removed with the Mag Instrument spanner tool, part # 112-000-001 or alternatively a pair of needle nose pliers.

A picture of the metal retaining ring switch next to a newer style plastic retaining ring switch is shown below. The plastic switch is now the only one available from Mag Instrument. It is part # 108-000-022. I have many C and D cell NOS (new old stock) metal retaining ring switches that I use for restorations. Because of the damage to the threads in this restoration I'll be using the plastic style even though it is not the switch originally installed in this model. If you need metal retaining ring switches for a restoration please let me know my contact info is at the right.



Usually due to battery leakage, the alkaline will leak down through the switch and bugger up the threads on the retaining ring making it impossible to remove with the plastic tool. Most times the dowels on the tool will either pull out or the plastic will break. This requires some creativity. Sometimes the light can be soaked in vinegar to soften this alkaline as detailed in my post about removing battery corrosion. Most times this will not work. In the picture below the plastic switch was removed without issue as per the standard Maglite switch removal process that can be found all over the internet including YouTube. I've detailed some of the removal process in my post here as well as dealing with stuck switches. In the photo below you can see the alkaline corrosion around the threads of the retaining ring which won't allow it to turn.



What I'll do next is take a 5/32" drill bit and drill out the small indents that are made for the spanner tool. Be sure to hold the drill straight up and down. The object is to drill as close to the threads as possible without actually touching them.Once through I'll drill another hole close to the inner diameter of the retaining ring to effectively split the retaining ring in two. When done correctly it should look like the picture below.



Once there is little material remaining a brass punch can be used to break the retaining ring away from the threads. Be sure to set the light on a wooden surface so it is not damaged during the removal. I set the brass punch as far away from the threads as I can as the object is to bend the retaining ring and split it where it was ground down so it will pull away from the threads. Shown below is what the ring looks like after broken and removed. You can see how little material is left that had to break at the outside edge.



Next I will soak the light in vinegar again and use a brass brush to remove any remaining alkaline from the threads. I'll be using a newer style threaded switch with a plastic retaining ring for the install below as the switches with the metal retaining rings are long out of production. Throughout this whole process it is important not to damage the threads as I do not know a tap available to fix them if they do become damaged. This tap is likely proprietary to Mag Instrument and not sold anywhere or is very expensive.



So, why did I bother saving this light? Well it's a Vari-Beam which in and of itself is fairly rare. It is also the intermediate style Vari-Beam which is even rarer. This style is easily identified as the grip is cut like a Soliatire instead of the pattern of the regular Maglite. These are also numbered individually from other Maglites and Vari-Beams. This one is a ~2,000 serial. I've seen less than half a dozen of these intermediate style Vari-Beams as they were produced for a very short period of time in 1982. This one is easily the lowest number serials out there. Anyway, please find pictures of the restored light below.




If you have have general corrosion from the batteries inside the barrel please proceed here for my post about removing corrosion.

As always I'm looking to buy Vari-Beams and Vintage/Rare Mags. Please let me know if you have any, top dollar paid.

5 comments:

  1. Jason,

    My second comment didn't make sense so deleted it. New to blogging so no telling what'll happen next as google tries to predict what I want to do next.

    Anyway google calls me 'dad' here. I'm mike

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  2. Hey, thanks dude! Glad ya like it. Hope you're liking how the Vari-Beam came out. I will probably Malkoff it when I get back on budget with lights.

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  3. I gather from your blog you can use a new style switch in an old style (aluminum retaining ring) body and ignore the internal threads? I have checked you leads on switches and find the website closed. Any current sources for them? I have a mid eighties 2C light which just stopped working and I ended up ruining the retaining ring and probably the internal threads. Very curious as to how they assembled the plastic switch body at the factory as I see a flange inside the lower bore which has no opening where it could be inserted? Very useful blog. I have had Maglites since shortly after they came out (probably a half dozen or more in total). No problems until the last few years when batteries seem to have lost quality. I remember when we went to the "new" alkaline batteries to solve the problem of leaking batteries with the old 'carbon' style. I have had twenty year old alkaline batteries and more with never a failure--not any more. Be interesting to know where the quality drop was that allows them to now leak. Take care. Doug

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    Replies
    1. Hey, thanks for the comment! I am not sure if the switches will interchange but without the clip/ring the switch won't work for very long due to the weight of the batteries pushing on it. It might be possible to use a new style switch with the old retaining ring but I've never tried.

      There should be plenty of replacement switches both old and new style on eBay. They usually go for around $10 shipped.

      I have had good luck with Duracell and Energizer batteries. If you use matching, brand new, quality batteries they should function well for years to come. The most important part is making sure all of the batteries are brand new and from the same pack and that the expiration date is still a ways away. The cheap Chinese alkalines always seem to leak, even when new.

      Best of luck with your light! I also do restorations too but the shipping is $10 each way unless you're close to NJ.

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