Switch Removal and Stuck Switches

This is part of a series of posts I've written about common Maglite repairs. I've also covered the following topics:

Removing Battery Corrosion and Straightening Bent Lights
Stuck End Caps
Stuck Batteries
Stuck Retaining Rings
Switch Disassembly and Repair

Disclaimer: I'll start out by saying that these repairs are tedious and challenging. It is very rewarding to make an old Maglite light again though. If you have a special light and don't feel up to the challenge I do restorations and custom work on most vintage flashlights. My contact info is at the right side of the page.

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When a Maglite fails to light it is usually an issue with battery corrosion or a switch malfunction. The first step is trying new batteries. Once the batteries are out and the end cap is off you may find that the switch is not easily removed.

Switch removal on a working Maglite is fairly easy. Videos are available all over online but basically you'll have to remove the switch cover (it just pulls off), and then insert either a 5/64" hex key down through the switch as shown below or Mag Instrument's proprietary torx key. (C Cells use a 1/16" hex key) Only lights made after 2010 or so have the proprietary torx screw installed from the factory and all 1992+ letter serial replacement switches now use them. Mag Instrument includes the torx key with new replacement switches. As far as I know that's the only way to get a key. Standard torx keys do not fit. Earlier D cells all use a 5/64" hex key and C cells all use a 1/16" hex key.

Most of the time this is where the trouble begins. Often, the screw will not turn and the hex key just twists or strips the screw. If the screw backs out, the switch can be slid out through the back of the light or the retaining ring (pre 92) or clip (92+) can be removed and the switch can be slid out of the front of the light. If the aluminum retaining ring cannot be removed on the pre 1992 lights proceed here but you'll have to remove the switch first.

So, what to do? You can try soaking the whole assembly in vinegar to dissolve the corrosion but it will also rust the steel innards of the switch. I've not found it to be effective in removing the switch anyway. The only way I've found to remove the switch also involves rendering it useless. The only thing that holds the switch into the light is the negative terminal screw that is under the switch button. It sits into a dimple machined into the body which completes the negative side of the circuit through the body and holds the switch into the light. The idea is to remove the pressure on this screw since it won't loosen. Drilling through the plastic switch is the only way I've found to accomplish this. Please see below for pictures post drilling of the switch assembly.

I usually drill and then try to drive it through with a piece of wood or bass punch. You have to be careful not to drive it too hard or the dimple machined into the body could be ruined. Once you've drilled out enough material the switch should be easy enough to push through. Be careful not to drill into the body either. The picture below shows the corrosion around the negative terminal screw that wasn't allowing it to turn.

As always I'm looking to buy Vari-Beams and Vintage/Rare Mags. Please let me know if you have any, top dollar paid.