Stuck Batteries

This is part of a series of posts I've written about common Maglite repairs. I've also covered the following topics:

Removing Battery Corrosion and Straightening Bent Lights
Stuck End Caps
Stuck Retaining Rings
Switch Removal and Stuck Switches
Switch Disassembly and Repair

Disclaimer: I'll start out by saying that these repairs are tedious and challenging. It is very rewarding to make an old Maglite light again though. If you have a special light and don't feel up to the challenge I do restorations and custom work on most vintage flashlights. My contact info is at the right side of the page.

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One of the most common problems that plagues vintage flashlights is stuck or frozen batteries. This is caused by alkaline batteries being left inside a flashlight long after their expiration date. Most flashlights see only occasional use and as such the alkaline cell corrodes through it's outer shell before the energy is depleted. Usually the user will turn on the light one day to find that it doesn't light and one or more cells is stuck in the light.

Have no fear, there is a solution! I've always been able to remove stuck batteries on every light I've worked on. It is just a matter of persistence and patience. Some may find that it is easier to purchase a new light. This is likely true for most ordinary users. However, some vintage lights are literally one of a kind and to me at least they are worth returning to running order.

Shown below is a 1st generation 5C cell Kel-Lite from the early 70s. While this isn't a Maglite the process works the same for a Maglite although a Maglite switch is located inside the barrel vs. on the exterior of this Kel-Lite. I have some info on Kel-Lites on my new blog.  On a Maglite the switch must be removed from the front (reflector side) of the barrel. This can be accomplished by unscrewing the retaining ring on an older style, non-letter serial or by removing the snap ring on the newer, panther style lights. More info is available in my post here about removing switches if they are stuck.

For the first step I'll clean out any loose alkaline that is inside the light with some warm water and a tooth brush. Next, just as I detailed in my post about removing corrosion, vinegar does a heck of a job at neutralizing the alkaline base and freeing the cells from the light. I use a 1 liter soda bottle with the top cut off to make up a bath for the light as shown below.

The trick here is letting the light soak and frequently changing the vinegar. What I usually do is let the light soak for a week, try to remove the batteries as per the instructions below and then soak the light again. It does help to change the vinegar bath every few days and remove any alkaline that has fallen out. Gently tapping the light while it is soaking every day or so helps the vinegar to work it's way in between the cells and barrel. Shown below is what my vinegar bath looked like after a couple days with alkaline floating it it.

Now it's time to try to remove the batteries. If this step doesn't work without a ton of effort try soaking the light longer. For serious offenders lemon juice may be alternated with vinegar to try to free up the cells easier. Different types of chemistry on the cells respond to either vinegar or lemon juice better but I don't quite know why.

First thing's first. You'll need some sort of dowel or punch to put force on the batteries. I used a 1/2" copper pipe but I've also used brass punches, wooden dowels and small steel rods. I prefer something softer so I know how much force I'm exerting. Also, you'll want to set the light on a piece of wood so it is not damaged. Shown below is how this should look.

Next, take a hammer, I like to use a rubber mallet, and pound the offending cells into exile from the barrel. If they don't budge or so much force is exerted that the light is in danger of being damaged try soaking it longer. Again, you want to make sure the light is on a sturdy but wooden surface during hammering otherwise the barrel end will mushroom ruining the threads and rendering the light useless, Obviously you'll want to hold or secure the light during hammering. Shown below is the aftermath of the removal and the hammer I use.

And the offending cells. Note these expired in 2009, 8 years prior to this post. Cells usually have a shelf life of 10 years so these were likely installed in the light in 1999.

Here is a shot of the inside diameter of the light. You'll need to continue to my post about post about removing corrosion to finish up the light and get it back into 100% working shape again. I'll post some pics of this finished light on my new blog soon. Best of luck!

If you're interested in seeing the rest of this restoration as well as the finished light. Please cruise on over to my other blog or the direct link to this post is:  http://otherflashlights.blogspot.com/search/label/Kel-Lite%20Repair

As always I'm looking to buy Vari-Beams and Vintage/Rare Mags. Please let me know if you have any, top dollar paid.